Tips

Tips

Follow these tips to prepare your top for longarm quilting.

Got a question? I can help!

  • Your blocks do matter

    Each step in the construction is important.  Don't be tempted to cut corners (literally) when pressing, cutting, sewing, pressing and squaring your blocks. 

    If you want a square quilt, all blocks within the quilt should be squared before being joined.  

    *Helpful Tip*

    Using a quality spray starch on your fabrics and allowing them to air dry prior to starting the cutting process helps the fabric maintain shape when cutting and sewing.  

    Be sure to press at each step of the block building process.  Your pattern should direct which way to press seams.  Don't push the iron on the fabric, but set it on the seam.

    Borders, they can make a square quilt wavy. Check your pattern directions for how to assemble and sew to the edges.  I find that mitered seams (45 degree angles) stretch less then ends simply cut straight and sewn together.

    If your quilt doesn't lay flat, it won't be flat after quilting.  Uneven seams, seams not pressed properly can cause fullness in your blocks and in the quilting.



  • Pressing Seams on the quilt top

    Be sure to press each seam as you create your quilt blocks, your pattern should instruct you on which way to press during the assembly process.

    *Helpful tip*

    When pressing your rows of blocks together press one row to the left, next row to the right, then left and so on.  This will help you nest the seams when sewing the rows togther.

    Press long seams of the quilt top open, these are the rows you've sewn together to make your quilt top.  When there are multiple seams that intersect it can cause needle deflection, increasing the likelyhood for odd looking stitches during the longarming process.

  • Clipping threads on the Quilt top

    Clip all threads on the top of your quilt top, this is the right side of the fabric that will be seen after quilting.  If you leave long loose threads they can get wrapped around the hopping foot of the longarm machine and can cause damage to the longarm.  If there are abundant loose threads I will have to stop and clip them as I go, and I will charge a thread trimming fee.

    *Helpful Tip*

    If your top and backing fabric doesn't include a lot of white open spaces there isn't the need to clip the underside of the quilt top, this is the side that will be against the batting.

  • Basting the quilt top

    Please bring the quilt top unbasted and folded seperately from the batting and backing.  I load each piece seperately on the frame. 

    *Helpful Tip* 

    If there are a lot of seams along the edge of your quilt top, you will want to run a 1/4" basting stitch along the edges of your quilt.  This will help the seams from opening once tension is placed on the quilt top.

  • Backings - what you need to know

    Backings, I prefer one piece quilt backs.  There are many 108"-120" backings now available on the market. 

    All backings must be a minimum of 10" longer and 10" wider then your quilt top.  

    EXAMPLE if your top is 80" X 80" your backing must be at least 90" X 90"


    Wide backings should be pre-washed and pressed before bringing for longarming.


    If you need to piece your backing please be advised that seams on the backing should have:

    1.  Selvages trimmed away before being joined (along the seam line).  Please leave the selvages on the edges so I have a straight edge to attach to the frame.

    2.  Use a 1/2" seam allowance

    3.  Press the seam OPEN

    4.  All seams need to go left to right (side to side) NOT top to bottom, limit the pieces please.  This is important to note if you have a particular top and bottom on the quilt top.  I will load seamed backings as needed to ensure your finished produt is as pucker free as possible.  

    When you add seams in multiple directions please note that the seams add a buildup of fabric and pull tighter than the fabric on either side.  This can cause issues with the vacking advancing evenly.


    *Helpful Tip*

    You have invested a lot of time and money into your quilt top, don't take a chance on the backing running or have the backing ripple/pucker.  

  • Batting - it does matter

    With so many battings on the market, please allow my experiences to help guide you on your choice.  Your batting can make all the difference in the longevity of your quilt.


    A loftier batting, for example, will show off the quilting more than a dense batting. Comparing Hobbs 80/20 batting to 100% Warm and Natural batting, both appear to be the same thickness. However, there is a difference in the density. Hobbs provides more loft, which in turn enhances the quilting.  Warm and Natural leaves a ton of lint on the machine, and requires a lot of cleaning during the process.

    If you really want to show off the quilting, wool batting is also a great choice. A double layer of Hobbs 80/20 and wool can give extra prominence to the quilted areas of your project. 

    I stock Hobbs 80/20 at all times, I try to have Hobbs Wool in stock as well.  

    A dark/black quilt and backing will do well with Hobbs Black batting, as it won't show through needle holes. 

    If you are looking for a very lofty look, consider Hobbs Poly Down batting.

    I recommend other products as well.  Amongst my favorites are the complete line of Quilters Dream Battings.

    I will not use a low grade batting on your quilt as it may cause damage or not stand up to the longarm quilting process.  If you do happen to provide a batting I believe inferior I will contact you to discuss it. 

  • Designs and Thread

    Edge to Edge:

    Please check my available designs on the Pantographs page.  

    I stock Glide threads in many vibrant colors.

    Thread should enhance your quilt not take away from it, in my opinion.  I try to match a common color on the quilt top.  Bobbin thread will be chosen from what I stock, I will match the top thread colorway.


    Custom quilting:

    I am happy to hear your ideas and thoughts on what your feel for the quilt is.  I can do traditional motifs such as feathers to modern designs using rulers.  I can do all free motion work or digital motifs based on blocks.  All custom work depends on your budget, and once you set a budget I will be able to help guide you in motif ideas.  Custom work is quite time consuming, so be practical when trying to decide between edge to edge quilting and custom work.

    Thread choices will compliment your quilt, and I prefer thread to add to the element of design, not take over the design.

  • Bindings

    Although binding is not in the top 3 things I enjoy doing, I will bind your project if requested.  If you are providing binding for me to attach to both sides by machine:

    1.  Uncut yardage if you wish me to make the binding.

    2.  Sufficient 2.25" (2 1/4") strips.

    3.  2.25" binding pre-made with mitered (not straight) seams, long enough to cover all edges plus 24".


  • What to bring / ship

    Be sure you are prepeared for our meeting. 

    You will want to provide

    1.  Your Quilt top pressed and free of loose threads/pet hair on the top

    2.  Your backing, minimum of 10" wider and 10" longer

    3.  Your batting (if you are providing)

    4.  Binding material/strips if you wish me to attach by machine.

    5.  Your completed intake form

    6.  Deposit 

  • What to expect

    Once your Quilt top arrives I will check it in and place it in queue.  My queue can be anywhere from 2 quilts to 63 quilts long.  This means my turnaround time varies between 2 weeks and 8 weeks.  I will let you know my estimated turn around time when I take your quilt in.

    When I am ready to load your quilt on the frame, I will be in touch via text.  It's very loud in the studio and I have a hard time hearing the phone :).


    *Helpful Tip*

    If I am required to sew/press or mend a quilt, it will delay it in queue.


    Once I am done with your quilt, you will receive a photo of the quilt, and your total.  


    If you are picking up your quilt in person, I will take balance payment at that time. 

  • Deposits and Payments

    I prefer to have a deposit on all custom quilting, minimum charge for custom is $150,   a deposit of $125.00 is required at intake.

    I also require you to set a budget, this is so I can work with you on designs to fit within your budget.

    All services will need to be paid in full before I release items.

    Quilts must be paid for and shipped/picked up within 24 hours please.

    If you are unable to pay immediately upon invoicing please reach out so we can work out a solution.

    If your quilt is not paid within 15 days I have a late fee (see intake form).  If a quilt is left for 30 days, I will consider it abandoned and will sell for fees due for services.

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